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Old 11-25-2009, 03:39 AM
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Default Adjusting TS55 & TS75 to match the same guide rail

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Originally Posted by Poto View Post
Gigantic slap on the forehead! $600 for a Domino and case of tenons (and presumably the cutter set, too)! Ouch.

Could you PM me the info? I've been wondering about a 1400 to take the 1/2" shank bits... Actually a TS75 would come in handy once in a while, too...
Peter,
Keep in mind that when you do get a TS75 and you plan to be switching between it and the TS55 ,,,,,,,, plan on getting another set of rails while your at it.
(If exacting cuts with the TS55 are an issue) If you take the same blade with the TS55 on the TS75,,,,,, the TS75 will gobble (we're near Thanksgiving) more rubber because of the wider kerf.

.
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:49 AM
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Default Re: TS75, 1400 router and MFT table for sale

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Originally Posted by RogerSavatteri View Post
Peter,
Keep in mind that when you do get a TS75 and you plan to be switching between it and the TS55 ,,,,,,,, plan on getting another set of rails while your at it.
(If exacting cuts with the TS55 are an issue) If you take the same blade with the TS55 on the TS75,,,,,, the TS75 will gobble (we're near Thanksgiving) more rubber because of the wider kerf.

.
Multiple saws can be adjusted so they have the same kerf proximity to the guide rail. The TS 75 can not be set out as far as the smaller saws (probably because it's blade is wider) so reconciling the kerfs mostly means setting the smaller saws closer to the guide rail to match the 75.
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:45 AM
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Default Re: TS75, 1400 router and MFT table for sale

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Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
Multiple saws can be adjusted so they have the same kerf proximity to the guide rail. The TS 75 can not be set out as far as the smaller saws (probably because it's blade is wider) so reconciling the kerfs mostly means setting the smaller saws closer to the guide rail to match the 75.
ugh!
really?


hadn't thought of that.
It's 1.45 am at the moment so I'm not in the shop,
so the the TS55 could be adjusted "out" so there is no degradation of the lead rubber, when switching between saws?

.


.
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:22 PM
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Default Re: TS75, 1400 router and MFT table for sale

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Originally Posted by RogerSavatteri View Post
ugh!
really?


hadn't thought of that.
It's 1.45 am at the moment so I'm not in the shop,
so the the TS55 could be adjusted "out" so there is no degradation of the lead rubber, when switching between saws?

.


.
The opposite. The TS 55 would be adjusted in to match the extra degradation of the splinter guard the TS 75 causes.

Clamp your shortest guide rail to a piece of wood (I think the best would be thick MDF or a couple of layers of ordinary MDF). Loosen the plate mount screws on the TS 75 and pull the plate as far from the blade as it will go. (I'm going from memory so refer to Rick's manual for proper instructions)

Re-tighten the plate mount screws and set the saw to full depth and make a test cut. After referring to Rick's manual concerning adjusting toe-in, make adjustment to the 75 so it cuts nicely. Move the guide rail to a fresh position and re-clamp then make another cut to confirm that the 75 is cutting well.

Loosen the plate mount screws on the TS 55 and set it on the same (still clamped) guide rail. Now comes the hard part, getting the blade snugged up to the kerf left by the 75 carefully enough that the procedure is worthwhile. The screws need to be loose enough to allow you to make adjustments but not so loose that the saw tilts on the plate or moves when you lift it to tighten the screws. It's really a hit-or-miss procedure so it isn't really adjustment at all. Good luck!!

And, it depends on the condition of the blade, dirty teeth may or may not help, depending on how warped the blade is. A warped blade will not help.

The worst case is that you still have some difference in how well each saw's kerf matches the splinter guard but it will be close enough that you're back to fitting the rail to one side of the mark or the other, something you've been coping with forever.

On the other hand, if you can afford a duplicate set of guide rails get 'em.
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:42 PM
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Default Re: TS75, 1400 router and MFT table for sale

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Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post

Clamp your shortest guide rail to a piece of wood (I think the best would be thick MDF or a couple of layers of ordinary MDF). Loosen the plate mount screws on the TS 75 and pull the plate as far from the blade as it will go. (I'm going from memory so refer to Rick's manual for proper instructions)

Re-tighten the plate mount screws and set the saw to full depth and make a test cut. After referring to Rick's manual concerning adjusting toe-in, make adjustment to the 75 so it cuts nicely. Move the guide rail to a fresh position and re-clamp then make another cut to confirm that the 75 is cutting well.

Loosen the plate mount screws on the TS 55 and set it on the same (still clamped) guide rail. Now comes the hard part, getting the blade snugged up to the kerf left by the 75 carefully enough that the procedure is worthwhile. The screws need to be loose enough to allow you to make adjustments but not so loose that the saw tilts on the plate or moves when you lift it to tighten the screws. It's really a hit-or-miss procedure so it isn't really adjustment at all. Good luck!!

And, it depends on the condition of the blade, dirty teeth may or may not help, depending on how warped the blade is. A warped blade will not help.

The worst case is that you still have some difference in how well each saw's kerf matches the splinter guard but it will be close enough that you're back to fitting the rail to one side of the mark or the other, something you've been coping with forever.

On the other hand, if you can afford a duplicate set of guide rails get 'em.
I went with the duplicate rail method, and after reading what's involved in your adjustment process, I'm sure glad I did.
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Old 11-25-2009, 07:18 PM
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Default Re: TS75, 1400 router and MFT table for sale

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I went with the duplicate rail method, and after reading what's involved in your adjustment process, I'm sure glad I did.
Ditto.
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Old 11-25-2009, 07:43 PM
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Default Re: Adjusting TS55 & TS75 to match the same guide rail

Hi,

Bump. Pulled this from a clasified add thread.

Seth
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Old 11-25-2009, 08:48 PM
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Default Re: Adjusting TS55 & TS75 to match the same guide rail

After adjusting your saws in this manner, I would imagine that recalibrating the Parallel Guides would also be in order, if you are using them.

Given the different kerf widths, it sounds like the Parallel Guide Extensions would need to be recalibrated between saws, assuming you have gotten the saws to cut the rail at the same spot.

I only have the TS75, so all my rails and guides are calibrated to the factory setting of the saw's base.
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:20 PM
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Default Re: Adjusting TS55 & TS75 to match the same guide rail

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Originally Posted by Wonderwino View Post
After adjusting your saws in this manner, I would imagine that recalibrating the Parallel Guides would also be in order, if you are using them.

Given the different kerf widths, it sounds like the Parallel Guide Extensions would need to be recalibrated between saws, assuming you have gotten the saws to cut the rail at the same spot.

I only have the TS75, so all my rails and guides are calibrated to the factory setting of the saw's base.
Did you have to re-calibrate the parallel guides? I imagine so as many TS 55 owners report that the parallel guides match their saw.

Last edited by MichaelKellough; 11-26-2009 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 12:31 AM
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Default Re: Adjusting TS55 & TS75 to match the same guide rail

I calibrated them as a matter of course. I made a 200mm "calibration block" on my SCMS which I used on the rail-side guides. I mounted the saw with the blade locked down on the rail and placed the 200mm block against an outside tooth and set the stop at 200mm, adjusting the scale as necessary. On the extensions, I simply mounted the stop at "0" and adjusted that scale to the blade.

I would like to see a plastic hairline on the stops to make it easier to set them accurately. The "V" on the block that points to the scale is nearly 2mm away, which for me takes more effort to line up.
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